EssentialItaly

Ham, Glorious Ham

Ian (TripinIt) writes: We were recently invited to a Blog Tour of the Versilia area of Tuscany, a stretch of land which runs along the northern coastline of Tuscany taking in the towns of Viareggio, Pietrasanta and Forte dei Marmi, and the hills that lie behind. Among the many highlights was a trip to the little village of Gombitelli – a most unlikely spot for ham paradise!

Little did we know, this village claims to have the perfect climate for the seasoning and maturing for all types of ham, salami and lard! The Triglia family has been hard at it since 1797.

We were welcomed by a huge table laden with more types of cold meats than you could shake a pig at. Before diving in, we were given a guided tour of the workplace. The underground first floor is where the seasoning takes place, the pancetta is seasoned with a carefully guarded secret blend of herbs and spices. On the second floor are the maturing rooms, a heady smell of meat and ageing hits you as you step out of the lift. We could see the whole process, from freshly strung salamis, to aged mouldy ‘works of  art’.

Back outside, we enthusiastically tucked in to the amazing buffet. It was all there… fresh sausage, hams, lard (my personal favourite). Full to the brim, we headed off with a whole new outlook of prosciutto and cold meats, I’ll never look at lard again in the same way.

Salumi di Gombitelli

Ideal places to stay in the area with Essential Italy:

Nicolo – in the small hamlet of Metato

Casa Valentina – on the edge of the village of Aquilea

Ripiano – close to Lucca and the Garfagnana National Park    

Many thanks to the organisers of the Versilia Blog Tour.

 

Our spring trip to the Amalfi Coast

Malcolm writes: If you’ve never been to this region of Italy, then you must, and prepare to be ‘blown-away’. The views in every direction from the towering slopes of the Sorrentine Peninsula are truly spectacular. From the northern coast across the Bay of Naples, lies the imposing silhouette of Vesuvius, keeping watch over the sprawling city of Naples below, with the island of Ischia clearly visible to the west. To the south-west, the island of Capri sits invitingly in the shimmering blue sea (a day trip to this beautiful island is definitely recommended!). On the south of the peninsula lies the world famous Amalfi Coast, an unbelievably spectacular stretch of coastline. The precipitous, winding coast road has to be one of the most stunning road trips you can take . . .  anywhere.

Essential Italy have a select portfolio of accommodation in this region, and following our recent visit, expansion is imminent. We were made very welcome by Conny and Amalia, their knowledge of the area is extensive and they appreciate exactly the type of property that fits the Essential Italy profile.

We began our 3 day stay at Oasi Olimpia Cottages (our accommodation), high in the hills of Sant’Agata and in the grounds of the Hotel Oasi Olimpia. Though the cottages lack the views of the main hotel, they are very comfortable and a great base for exploring the region.

Oasi Olimpia Cottages

As well as visiting prospective new accommodation (watch this space!), we spent time revisiting some of Essential Italy's current properties on the peninsula. First stop, the recently revamped Relais Gourmand in Marina del Cantone, which boasts 2 star Michelin restaurant (and if you stay a week or more, Essential Italy guests are offered a free dinner!). The refurbishment is very impressive and the restaurant has a wonderful fresh, light and airy feel, with views out over the sea.

Chefs take a break at Relais Gourmand

Next, Tenuta Montecorbo in Massa Lubrense. Originally the home to 16th century Italian Poet Torquato Tasso, this robust stone built property sits high in 1700 acres among olive and lemon groves, with wonderful views over the sparkling blue sea . . .  the setting is utterly tranquil. The ecologically conscious hotel offers a vegetarian and vegan menu. The six bedrooms, with garden and/or sea views are traditionally furnished, and all have air conditioning. A stay here would leave anyone feeling reinvigorated.

Tenta Montecorbo

Also in Massa Lubrense, in the tiny village of San Franceso, we took the opportunity to have a quick look around Casa Zaffiro and the 2 apartments at Vista Capri - all being meticulously prepared for the season ahead. Casa Zaffiro is a contemporary light and airy 2 bedroom apartment, ideal for a couple or small family, the balcony - with seating - enjoys great views across the shimmering blue sea towards Capri. The 2 apartments at Vista Capri (Uno and Due) all enjoy the same wonderful views, have 2 bedrooms, sleep 4 and share a swimming pool. An added advantage at these properties is the pizzeria/restaurant virtually on your doorstep, very convenient after a days exploration.

View from Vista Capri

Sorrento was our next destination. The bustling, cliff-top town is already starting to fill with tourists, all appreciating the stunning sunset vistas across the bay of Naples. Following a superb evening meal, we readied ourselves for the next days trip along the Amalfi Coast.

Sarah at sunset in Sorrento, Vesuvius on the horizon

The Amalfi Coast stretches for 50 kilometres and is one of Europe’s (if not the world’s) most breathtaking stretches of coastline. The cliffs are terraced with scented lemon groves, colourful towns and villages clinging precariously to the slopes, stretching down to the shoreline and gazing out over the twinkling blue sea and uninterrupted horizon. First stop, Positano - the coast’s most photogenic town. The steep streets and paths are flanked by colourful houses, smart hotels, restaurants and flamboyant jewellery and lace shops. Back on the coast road, we made our way towards the town of Amalfi, with stops along the way at Ravello and lunch in the piazza at Minori.

The beautiful hillside town of Positano

This stretch of coastline is uniquely beautiful, spectacular, quite stunning and should be on anyone's list of places to visit. The best time to visit is in the spring or autumn. In July and August the area is a tourist hot-spot, and the coast road becomes extremely(!) busy, and inevitably, prices are inflated.

Keep a look out on the website for an Amalfi Coast property update.

 

Our successful trip to Puglia

Blossom at Masseria Montenapoleone.

Sarah writes: Yes it is all in a days work!  Helen and I have just come back from  a trip to Puglia to search out some new properties to add to this glorious region’s Portfolio.  Three days is usually ample but this time we were fighting against a rather bad bout of weather and strong winds on day one and so were slowed down somewhat on arrival in Bari. This did not dampen our spirits and we were immediately pleased to see that the airport is enlarging it’s terminal – both Bari and Brindisi have modern and passenger-friendly terminals but bigger is better in this case and will make it even easier to negotiate.

Our first appointment on leaving Bari was in Santa Maria di Leuca – the most southerly tip of Puglia so had a drive of about 2 hours. We arrived in time to view our first property and then moved on to Masseria Gialli which will be super when finished in May, complete with its own observatory with star gazing telescope in a trullo with a hole in the roof! Watch this space.  The rain continued to our next venue, Masseria Saietti, where the wonderful hosts, Nicoló and Francesca had warmed up our lovely rooms, had a bottle of local Prosecco on ice and prepared the most delicious dinner which we shared with Marco and Antonella -  we are all  now are best friends.  The artichokes lightly fried in beer batter and the squid stew were absolutely delicious as were the orecchiette with broccoli – a truly magnificent spread.

Battered Artichokes at Masseria Saietti.

After a rather light breakfast of freshly squeezed orange juice and a small piece of homemade crostata filled with Francescsa’s fig jam, we moved on to the Salento to see some villas and apartments – style in Puglia is always great and watch the website for some new and interesting properties. One of our “musts” when in Salento is to call in at Tulsi, for a touch of retail therapy – a beautiful little shop run by the lovely Deborah who has a wonderful selection of all sorts – we came out with 2 bags full of summer attire that we knew would be difficult to fit into our Ryan Air hand luggage but hey, where there’s a will there’s a way (and Helen looked great in her coat, jacket, scarf and shawl at check-in...).

Lecce was next on our schedule – a visit to Palazzo Gorgoni was a must, to say hello to the super owner and refresh our memories of this glorious city.  It is the perfect place for a weekend as there is much to see and some really great restaurants to sample.

Cyclamen at Palazzo Gorgoni.

From Lecce we headed up to the Valle d’Itria where we saw a couple of fantastic masserias, fantasised about which one we would buy when we win the lottery, and ended up in the beautiful White City of Ostuni where we were staying at B&B Casa d’Autore. What a find... the very unassuming wooden gate on the street gave no indication to the stunning interior we found inside. Four elegant and comfortable rooms, a walled garden and a great breakfast – all with the town on the doorstep. We climbed the steep hill up to the cathedral later in the evening and enjoyed dinner in a local restaurant with some truly great wine – the walk down was a piece of cake.

The next day the sun was shining – hurrah! A lot of driving amidst olive groves, green, green fields and low stone walls took us from Ostuni to Martina Franca to Cisternino to Ceglie Messapica looking at some great trullos and some not so great ones – most renovations have been done beautifully in Puglia but there are one or two that have not quite got the touch. A small detour took us out to the coast to Torre Canne for a brief visit to meet the new manageress, Annabella, at Canne Bianche Beach Hotel and to refresh our memory (as if we could forget!) of the super beach location. After many kilometres and enough trulli to confuse us totally, we finally arrived at our last stop in Pezzi di Greco and what a great choice for our last night in Puglia. Masseria Montenpoleone was the icing on the cake – a rustic and large masseria that is ecologicallly friendly and run by  Giuliano, the charming owner, who has overseen the renovations and used many of the original family collections to decorate the building giving a fantastic feel throughout and made us want to come home and see if we too could make lamps out of coffee pots.

 

Sarah and Giuliano, the lovely, gentle and charming owner of Masseria Montenapoleone.

Dinner in Pezze di Greco was quiet and enjoyable until we were told that credit cards were not taken and so we had to do a quick run up the main street to the cash machine in order to pay the bill – mental note to always have a little cash in our pockets when in Puglia! After a fabulous nights sleep, some the Masserias Montenapoleone, some homemade bread and jam plus a small piece of chocolate cake for good measure, we were back on the road in the direction of Fasano and Monopoli to visit a couple of B&Bs before heading to Bari Airport for our flight home.  The temptation to go and sit on the beach for 20 minutes as we drove along the dual carriageway was huge but glad we didn’t as we would have missed the plane for sure! Roll on September when we can do it all again!

 

Spring has sprung in Puglia!

Spring has definitely sprung in Puglia... and heading fast towards a typical hot and sunny summer. Masseria Montenapoleone >

Judging by all this glorious almond blossom, 2013 is going to be a good year for almonds!

 

Sarah’s top ten reasons to visit Puglia in June

1. Beat the crowds – June is the the perfect month to drive along the coastline, visit some of the hilltop towns or simply sit on one of the quiet beaches and breathe in the wonderful clean air.
2. The light at this time of year is perfect for some super photos – snap away at the trulli, the coast, the age old olive trees and you will return home with a wonderful selection to remind you of your stay.
3. June has the longest days in all the year – drive to the west coast and find a spot one of the sandy beaches and watch the sun drop into the sea – maybe as late as 20.30!
4. Cherry lovers eat your hearts out – go to Turi on Saturday 9.06  and Sunday 10.06 to taste the local cherries.     Beautifully presented on stalls along the streets of the old village you will also find some delicious homemade delights to sample -  almond cakes, cherry wine, jams, cherry liqueurs,the wine, taralli  biscuits, bread dipped in extra virgin olive oil and much more. Turi is equidistant from Conversano and Putignano going inland.
5. Go to Savelletri and take a seat at the Pescheria Fish shop on terrace overlooking the sea and enjoy a bottle of white wine and a platter of raw fish straight out of the sea.
6. Explore the beautiful city of Lecce – the Florence of the South – before it gets too hot and busy. Stay at the lovely Palazzo Gorgoni.
7. Marvel at the Castellana Caves where you walk between extraordinary stalagmites and stalactites to the amazing "White Cave" that is over 70m deep.
8. Stay at Canne Bianche Beach Hotel  and walk along the quiet sandy beach to Torre Canne for an aperitivo and super panorama.
9. Take a drive to Andria and explore the castle, Castel del Monte, built by Frederick II in the 13th century. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
10. Taste the fantastic Primitivo wine at one of the local vineyards – 2012 will be just about ready for drinking. Cin cin!

 

It’s supper tonight at Relais Torre Marabino in Sicily

Supper tonight at Relais Torre Marabino in Sicily – wish I was there!

 

The Outstanding Gastronomical Delights of Vignacastrisi

Siobhain McConnell writes: Julius Caesar may have been forewarned to “beware the ides of March” but had the soothsayer known about the annual Salento cuisine sampling, held on 1st March at the picturesque resort of Vignacastrisi di Ortelle, South Italy, he may have advised differently.

The event is organised by the region’s tourist association (www.vignacastrisi.it/en) to promote the gastronomical delights of the region – and it certainly does so with incredible gusto. Over thirty traditionally prepared dishes are on offer, including slow roasted pork, rice frittatas, mixed legumes, stone-baked breads, oven-roasted meats and vegetables, salads and various cheeses; as well as traditional Salento dessert platters of ricotta, sweet almond biscuits and delicious handmade pastries.

This year, the amazing array of gastronomical delights was prepared by head chef Luigi Fiorentino, owner of the nearby Cico restaurant and pizzeria in Diso. The seven meter long table of culinary brilliance was a food lover’s dream - a glorious medley of colours, textures and tastes, all particular to the sunny climates of the Mediterranean and served outdoors under the warm sun on a typical 18°C Salento spring day.

 “We use the yellow tomato (a typical tomato of the region)  to give flavour  and density to the vegetable dishes, whereas the more common red tomato is used to best effect in the juicer and richer meat dishes” said Luigi.

One of the favourites of the day was the “cavolfiore fritto”, an amazingly tender cauliflower fritter cooked in a wonderfully light and tasty batter. Other favourites included Grano con Verdura (a baked bean dish with aubergine and peppers), Cavolo con Uovo (a local green leaf vegetable served with eggs), Insalata di Cipolla (fresh salad with roasted spring onions), Peperonata di Pomodoro Gialla (an oven baked meat casserole flavoured with yellow tomatoes).

The mouth watering dishes were further complimented by a selection of fine Salento wines produced from the famous Negroamaro and Malvasia grapes of the region. “Many wine lovers are attracted to the Salento region because local production means a really good red wine costs so little here in Salento compared to elsewhere in the world” said Mauro Malizia, a local wine enthusiast.

Also in attendance at the tasting event was the Mayor of Ortelle and a number of esteemed hoteliers. “This event shows Vignacastrisi di Ortelle not just as a gastronomical center of excellence, but also demonstrates its proximity to the Adriatic sea” said Sergio Positano, owner of the charming 18th century Palazzo Guglielmo, a popular boutique hotel in Vignacastrisi. 

Following the food tasting, guests were invited to stroll through the delightful olive groves of the region and finish the day with a coffee at the scenic Castro Marina, enjoying wonderful views across the crystal clear sea of the Adriatic.

If you would like to sample the gastronomical delights of the region, walk through delightful olive groves, or spend a few days relaxing by the incredibly scenic Castro Marina, please talk to Helen who will put you in touch with Siobhain who lives in the area and offers superb tours of the region.

Accommodation available at Palazzo Guglielmo in Vignacastrisi.

 

Louise’s top 10 reasons to visit the Amalfi Coast in June

1. June offers glorious sunshine (not too hot) and fantastic views in this spectacular region of Italy.
2. Eat lobster, octopus, crab... fresh from the sea.
3. Enjoy a glass of famous ‘limoncello’ – an infusion of lemon peel in pure alcohol, the perfect way to finish a meal.
4. If lemons are not your thing, try a ‘nocino’ made from Sorrento walnuts and coffee beans.
5. Put on your hat and trainers and go explore fascinating Pompei – a super day out in June.
6. Study the amazing array of Mediterranean flowers, all in bloom during June.
7. Hire a convertible and drive the spectacular panoramic coast road with the wind in your hair!
8. Sit back and watch the Amalfi Regatta – an amazing sight, held only once every 4 years.
9. On 24 June, Vietri sul Mare hosts the festival of San Giovanni Battista – a magical time.
10. The Ravello Festival starts in June and continues through the summer – music, dance, art and much more to enjoy.

 

Zaira’s top 10 reasons to visit Tuscany & Umbria in June

1. The temperature is perfect for walking and the climbing hills to visit many of small, beautiful hilltop towns and villages
2. The light in June is perfect for photographing the endless Tuscan scenery
3. Have fun at the Santa Fina festivities – the patron Saint of San Gimignano 
4. Girls… get some fashion tips at the Pitti Palace fashion shows in Florence 
5. Boys… enjoy one of the 3 medieval football matches in Florence to celebrate the patron Saint John, and see just how the game started in Italy
6. Admire the River Arno in Pisa illuminated by candlelight on 16th of June and the annual regatta on the 17th of June
7. Browse the fantastic ceramics fair in Montelupo, the home of the Tuscan ceramics industry
8. Get some great photos at the amazing flower festival – Infiorata – in Spello
9. La Sagra del Oca at Orvieto – everything you could ever imagine you could do with a goose!
10. Eat Tortello Mugellano to your heart's content (ravioli filled with potatoes) at Borgo San Lorenzo… delicious!

 

10 reasons to visit Sicily in June

1. All the Italians are at work so you can experience the Italian summertime before the Italians do!
2. You get a chance to see the beautiful local nature and countryside before the summer heat dries it out!
3. Ideal temperatures for proper trekking on Mount Etna, Pantalica & Cavagrande.
4. Walk through the Riserva dello Zingaro and discover the beautiful little coves, with hardly anyone else around.
5. Experience the local food and cuisine (though its always the right time to do this in Sicily!)
6. Witness a truly breathtaking sunset on the west of the island (the salt pans are the best place!)
7. Not too busy (or hot!) to drive around and do some proper sightseeing on an island that has seen so many different civilizations over the course of its history (Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Germans, Spaniards…)
8. Watch the Greek dramas at the Greek theatre in Siracusa, in Italian!
9. No long queues wherever you choose to go… (unless, of course, you are at the post office!)
10. In one line: beat the Italians on their home territory, get here before they do, and simply enjoy their stunning island.