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Sardinia
Sarah’s Sardinian Paradise
Late autumn in Sardinia can sometimes mark the beginning of a rather wet and windy winter, so imagine my joy this November morning to be greeted by a glorious blue sky and a warming sun. I was on my way to Casa dell’Aquila (one of my favourite properties at any time of the year), when I remembered a small cove nearby that I’d not visited in a while – accessed between magnificent granite rocks, Juniper bushes and Strawberry trees.
This tiny sandy bay surrounded by some wonderful rock formations, with nothing but the gentle lap of the water on the beach and the scent of the Machia mixed with the sea air, makes it a heavenly secret place. Shoes and socks off and trousers rolled up to my knees, I began paddling along the shore. I was even contemplating a quick swim, but I’m not as hardy as Helen who stoically took a dip in the North Sea last week!
On my way back, I met a couple of tourists half-way through the bushes. They asked me if there was anything worth continuing for. I replied ‘absolutely nothing for miles!’ Technically I didn’t really lie – there’s miles of secret beaches – so rather reveal where this magic is to be found, I encourage you to get exploring and find your own secret spot.
A slice of heaven in Sardina
It’s August and Sardinia is hot which is glorious to feel. We grab the hire car and drive the 40 minutes to Porto Rafael under the guidance of Essential Italy’s perfect instructions. Sarah greets us with a huge smile, leads us to Rosetta and so starts a week of bliss. We wake to beaming sunshine, a view from the bed across the blue sea with the whites of sail boats to the island of La Maddelena. The smiling begins.
Rosetta is a slice of heaven. Perched on the hill with that view which, let me tell you will take up hours of your time, the accommodation is what it says it is. A small apartment offering everything you need. A bed, somewhere to hang your clothes, a kitchen, a beautiful bathroom with original painted tiles, a table to eat on and the terrace.
Our first day was made up of a wander to the shop, coffee and breakfast on the terrace and looking at the view. Three hours later we thought we’d find the beach. About 30 steps down and we are on it! The most beautiful, small, quaint, quiet and perfect beach. We plonk ourselves and re-start the watching. The waves, the boats, the quiet comings and goings of a few Italian tourists, we occasionally venture into the sea and we smile. And so the format of the holiday is set.
Never in our lives have we done so little. Never did we think that we could do so little and enjoy it so much. Never did we ever think we would be able to do so little and get away with it. Our lives as parents, partners, workers, friends and daughters are relentless – this is what we needed. This is what after just one day we concluded the NHS should offer all mothers (and fathers!) a week in the sun with nothing to do. Our heads were empty.
So the week went on. We ventured out on trips to lovely local markets, to La Maddelena and into the countryside and always considered a different beach. But we always ended up back at Porto Rafael. We couldn’t find one reason to be on any other beach – especially as one of the Porto Rafael cafes also served the best chocolate ice cream which we couldn’t bear having to miss.
We did spend one day on a sailing boat which took us out into the Med, to the amazing unspoilt islands of Italy and Corsica, where we anchored and were served the most delicious lunch made by the Captain of the boat who then continued to sail us past sandy coves, over the bluest, clearest seas whilst we of course relaxed and smiled. A sailing boat trip is a must – it was the most perfect day! It is purely selfish reasons that has prevented me writing this and sending it to Essential Italy until now.
We did of course tell Helen and Sarah how wonderful their accommodation is, how the service pre-holiday was faultless, how Sarah’s local knowledge, in resort support and company was a joy, and how we want to have a holiday like this every year. But the truth is I’m not sure I want anyone else to know about Rosetta and Porto Rafael and how perfect it is, but also know that not to spread the magic of this place would prevent others smiling like fools for a week. And that is something everyone needs.
Anne Marie Francis | Worthing | UK
Our family holiday in Sardinia
Helen writes: we succeeded in doing very little for the whole of our week long holiday in Porto Rafael, Sardinia. The children however snorkelled, swam, kayaked, made sandcastles and generally turned into water babes for the week. The ‘teenagers’ managed to stay up all night – almost every night – sleeping for much of the day and getting up just in time to have a very late lunch and a little swimming before starting another night of doing exactly what everyone else had done during day light hours.
We also managed to leave the comfort of our villas to embark on a day at Aqua Dream in Baia Sardinia. To be honest, I was lacking in enthusiasm for this day out. However, I’m almost a convert after trying the slides, flumes and other water games, which had us all laughing – with the exception of my good friend Sam who managed to completely traumatise herself on the largest, steepest water slide I’ve ever seen. As I pointed out to her, it’s good to leave your comfort zone from time to time. I should also add she spent the rest of the day under a tree handing out encouragement to all who would listen to ‘give it a go’.
We are always a large party and we decided to split up this year as there was no one house large enough to cater for us. My family took Villa Rafael – a lovely three bedroom house on the beach in Porto Rafael with three fabulous terraces. Sam and family took Casa Wasa along with Ian and his boys. Casa Wasa has, in my opinion, the best position in the bay and was the very first house to be built in the village. It has a very large outside space along with a private jetty and kayaks, and it quickly became ‘base camp’ from where all meals were eaten. After day one we decide the ‘teenagers’ needed a space of their own and moved them into a small house close to Wasa. This was deemed a Good Thing™.
Big thanks to Yvonne, Malcolm and Bella for adding to the party for one night and also lending us Bella to play with Imi and Ollie. Apologies once again for Ian’s shoes and his desire to ply you with Limoncello di Crème which upon reflection had been out of the fridge for too long. Biggest thanks of all go to Sarah who looked after us all fantastically and never grumbled that, while I was playing on the beach she was working flat out looking after all our clients in the area. The downside for me is that I have to come home to my desk and she gets to stay in this very beautiful part of Italy for the rest of the year long after all the tourists have left.
Hugo Boss in Sardina
Hugo Boss was recently in Sardinia. Well one of his racing yachts was. Essential Italy are delighted to have assisted the Hugo Boss crew with their accommodation at Capriccioli while their team is competing in the Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup 2010.
Sarah caught sight of the Hugo Boss yacht speeding along close to the Costa Serena last week and she just managed to get her camera out in time.
10 fantastic places to stay in Sardinia in September
Sarah writes: September is a great time to travel to Sardinia as the majority of the fun-loving, boisterous Italians from the mainland that fill this little corner of paradise each year, return home at the end of August; leaving us with peaceful towns, empty beaches and glorious warm sun-filled days. My personal pick of the top 10 places to stay during this fantastic month are:
Hotel La Coluccia: designer chic on the beach.
Elena: small villa for two overlooking the sea at Porto Rafael with private access to the beach.
Lu Ciaccaru: beautiful little hotel in idyllic countryside setting with its own restaurant and pool. A true hideaway.
Torre gren: romantic studio with huge terrace and stupendous views.
Villa del Golfo Relais: live in luxury for a long weekend with fabulous quality and service just a few minutes walk away from the seafront and the town of Cannigione.
Mascaratu: perfect country retreat with private pool. You could get through a load of books, and possibly quite a lot of wine.
Cala Caterina: Super location with grassy lawns that stretch down to the beach.
Rosanna: Cute two-floor terraced house with great terrace and views. It’s super value.
Hotel Le Dune: Cut yourself off from the world completely in this hotel that nestles in the dunes on the west coast. Unbeatable location with sensational sunsets.
Torretta: The famous ‘round house’ with amazing terrace over the sea. You may never go out except of course to the beach by the private path.
Italian holiday properties perfect for swimming | Sardinia
Sarah writes: Northern Sardinia obviously has plenty of great beaches from which to enjoy a paddle in the Mediterranean. And of course there are plenty of holiday properties with pools to relax by if sea swimming isn’t your thing. So here’s our selection of Essential Italy’s very best villas, hotels and apartments from which the pool or the sea is just a short stroll.
If getting up at the crack of dawn and jumping into the sea for a pre-breakfast dip (stark naked if you so desire) is your cup-of-tea, then Elena, Torretta and Rosetta in Porto Rafael are perfect.
If recharging your batteries is your prime concern on holiday, then the special magnetic vibes of Sa Rocca will see you right. Chilling out in fabulous Sardinian countryside by the lovely pool at Lu Ciaccaru has been many guests favourite moments for those staying in Arzachena.
For the romantically inclined, you could be whispering some sweet nothings into your loved one’s ear on the beach whilst dinner is being prepared at hotel La Coluccia, or at Colonna Grande Hotel Capo Testa. And last but not least, Torre Gren has 360 degree views and a bar right below you. What more do you need?
Carnival Sardinia 2010
Sarah writes: Carnival week has just come to an end here in Sardinia for 2010. This sadly marks the end of mid-afternoon glasses of wine, wild dancing along the sea-front, and wonderfully sugary doughnuts at all times of day and night.
This year’s Carnival had been hampered by bad weather, but on Sunday the sun was out everyone had a great time. We finished up in Cannigione outside the great Riva Azzurra apartments; now all I need do is convince them to open early next year so that our customers can join in this fantastic party week too. Fingers crossed, I’ll see you here next year!